If you've been wondering how to make your own fabric and tulle flowers for journal covers, embellishments, or paper craft projects, this tutorial covers five different methods from start to finish — all using materials you likely already have. Each method produces a noticeably different result, from thick, soft wraparound rosettes to flat layered square flowers that sit neatly inside a journal page.
What we cover
Five flower-making methods using fabric, tulle, lace, and doilies: the wraparound method, the template (layered circles) method, the fold-over gathered method, fabric bows, and square layered flowers. For each one, we make a flower together on camera, including how to finish the center with a sewn button or bead.
What you'll learn
How to make a wraparound tulle or fabric flower, including:
- Cutting a loose strip (approximately 32 inches by 4 inches for a full flower) and wrapping it around your hand
- Tying off the middle with string before cutting the loops — or cutting straight across for a smaller, flatter result
- Trimming and shaping the petals after assembly, including cutting into them for a more textured, open look
- Using two different tulle types together (including sparkle or metallic tulle) for a richer effect
Why I sew the center button rather than gluing it — sewing compresses the middle of the flower, thinning it down and securing all the layers at once. Gluing only attaches to the top layer, leaves the center bulky, and risks the button coming loose later. The same logic applies across all five methods.
How to make template (layered circle) flowers, including:
- Cutting cardboard circle templates in graduated sizes — from half an inch up to one and three-quarter inches — and using them to cut fabric circles quickly and consistently
- Layering different materials (fabric, tulle, doily, glitter fabric, lace) for depth and variety
- Using zigzag scissors on the outer layers for a decorative edge
- Curling fabric circle edges with a lighter to give petals a more natural, lifted look
- Adding a ribbon or small strip beneath the center layer before sewing, for an extra detail
How to curl fabric petal edges with a lighter or candle, and why this makes a real difference to how the finished flower reads — raw-cut circles look blunt; curled edges look intentional.
How to make a fold-over gathered flower, including:
- Cutting a strip approximately 15 inches by 2.5 inches, folding it lengthwise, and finishing both short ends with a tucked fold
- Sewing a loose running stitch near the open (non-folded) edge, then pulling the thread to gather the strip into a flower
- Adjusting fullness by how tightly you pull and whether you overlap the two ends or leave them separate
- Why the closer your running stitch is to the raw edge, the neater the center looks once gathered
How to make fabric bows using the wraparound method — same wrapping technique as the wraparound flower, except you don't cut the loops. The key difference is leaving a tail at both ends before you wrap, so you have enough material to form the bow shape. Finishing with pinking shears gives the tails a clean, decorative edge.
How to build a square layered flower, including:
- Cutting rough squares or rectangles of fabric (they don't need to be perfect) and rotating each layer slightly so the corners fan out around a center point
- Stacking as many layers as you like in different colors, fabrics, and laces
- Running a stitch through the center before adding the button to keep all the layers from shifting
How to use brads, beads, rhinestones, and buttons as flower centers — including threading a bead onto the needle, passing it through the center, and returning the needle so the bead sits raised in the middle rather than flat.
Tips & gotchas
Don't layer two pieces of tulle when curling edges with a lighter — they'll melt together. Work one piece at a time, hold the lighter briefly underneath, and keep moving. The moment the edge curls, pull away. Holding the flame too close or too long will destroy the fabric rather than curl it. A candle may actually be easier than a lighter for this — running the edge across a flame gives you a bit more control than a handheld lighter.
When you're doing the wraparound method, make sure all the string ends are tied securely in the middle before you cut the loops. If the thread isn't locked, the whole thing loosens the moment you cut. Tie it twice, hold it with your thumb while you knot, and don't rush this step.
For the fold-over flower, the running stitch placement matters more than the stitch length. Getting your stitch close to the raw (non-folded) edge is what gives you a tighter, neater gather at the center. Stitch length variation — some stitches longer, some shorter — doesn't affect the final look much, so don't stress about keeping it even.
For bows, the most common mistake is not leaving enough tail before you start wrapping. Check your tail length before you commit to the wrap — once it's tied in the middle it's difficult to add material.
One small thing worth knowing about the square flower: run a securing stitch through the center of all your layers before you add the button center. Without it, the squares shift as you sew and the final flower ends up off-center.
Wear gloves when working with the lighter, especially if you're curling smaller pieces that bring your fingers close to the flame.
The flat square flower and the template layered flower are the most versatile for use inside journals since they sit closer to the page. Once you've made a few and have a sense of how each method handles different fabrics, mixing techniques becomes very natural — a fold-over gathered base with layered template circles on top, for instance, or a wraparound flower with a doily tucked underneath before the center is sewn. The materials list is deliberately flexible; the point is to work with what you have.
