If you've ever wanted to make an envelope that opens up completely — one that becomes a little world of pockets, journaling spots, and closures rather than just a sleeve — this tutorial is for you. I walk through making deconstructed envelopes two ways, though honestly it turns into quite a few more than two by the time we're done. These work beautifully as junk journal inserts, cards for a special occasion, or standalone little gifts, and you can make them as simple or as elaborate as you like.
What we cover
We start with a flip-open envelope made from 12×12 scrapbook paper — two panels hinged together, with options for pockets, ribbon closures, brads, and layered matting. Then we move to a scored and folded square envelope made on an envelope punch board, including how to mat individual panels and add a magnetic closure. Along the way I show finished examples in several sizes and styles, including a house-shaped version, so you can see how far the idea can go.
What you'll learn
How to cut and join two panels into a flip-open deconstructed envelope, including:
- Overlapping the panels with double-sided tape and a scored fold line for a clean, supported hinge
- Using masking tape or washi tape as an alternative hinging method
- How to check both pieces are exactly the same size before joining, and how to fix small discrepancies
Why I use a glue stick over double-sided tape when joining panels — the glue stick slightly reduces the tape's grip so you have time to maneuver both pieces into alignment before everything locks down permanently.
How to decide flap length and what counts as the "sweet spot" — I eyeball mine at just under three inches, but you'll see how short or long flaps change the look, and why there's no single right answer.
How to break up matching panels so the flap reads as a flap — if both sides of your scrapbook paper look the same, the fold line disappears. Matting a separate piece underneath, or mixing papers, gives you a visible layer and creates a built-in pocket at the front while you're at it.
Adding closure elements, including:
- A flat ribbon threaded underneath a pocket panel and tied in a double knot
- A brad-mounted stamped or die-cut circle closure
- A magnetic closure (covered in depth in the punch board section)
- Black-and-white twine tied in a double knot, with optional beads
Why brads should go in before you glue down the base paper — once everything is glued, the prong feet show on the inside. Attach the brad first, then sandwich the prongs between layers so the inside stays clean.
How to use an envelope punch board to score and fold a square envelope, including:
- The We Are Memory Keepers board as the specific tool used here
- Starting measurements: 8½×8½ paper scores at 4⅛ inches; 10×10 paper scores at 4¾ inches for a square result
- The key rule: align to the guide measurement on the very first punch only — every step after that is simply rotate anti-clockwise, align the score line to the notch, and score again
Building a personal reference sheet for your punch board — scoring and folding a small prototype at each setting, numbering it, and keeping them together so you can see at a glance which setting gives you which finished size.
How to mat individual panels on a scored envelope — cutting a second sheet through the same punch board process, then cutting along the score lines to get panels that match each flap exactly. You trim each panel slightly smaller than the flap so a border shows all around, ink the edges, and glue down.
How to number your panels when matting multiple pieces — write the panel number on the back of each cut piece so you don't mix up the slightly different sizes as you work.
How to place a magnetic closure without measuring, including:
- Attaching the first magnet behind a decorative piece (stamped circle, false wax seal, or simple layered cardstock)
- Applying a dot of white glue to the first magnet, pressing the envelope closed so it leaves an impression, then positioning the second magnet directly over that mark — no guesswork about placement
The house-shaped envelope variation — using one wide piece of 12×12 paper oriented landscape, folding and cutting a triangle flap so the envelope reads like a little house when open. I show how to add a door element, windows cut from scrapbook paper with a slit left unglued, and a handle detail.
Where to place pockets on a flip-open envelope — always on the top panel, not the bottom. Anything glued to the lower panel will dump its contents when you flip the envelope closed.
Tips & gotchas
Check both panels are exactly the same size before you join them. Even a small tilt when cutting can leave one piece slightly wider, and it's much easier to trim at that stage than after the envelope is assembled.
When joining the panels, apply a glue stick on top of the double-sided tape before peeling the tape's backing. It sounds counterintuitive, but the glue stick softens the tape's immediate grab — you get a few seconds to slide things into position. Once you're happy with the alignment, press down firmly.
If you're adding a brad closure, do it before gluing down the decorative layer. The brad's prong feet end up sandwiched between layers and become invisible. If you attach the brad after everything is glued, the feet show on the inside — not a disaster, but you'll need to cover them with a separate piece of paper.
When matting multiple panels on a punch board envelope, mark the back of each panel with its number as you cut. The panels look similar but aren't all the same size, and it's easy to grab the wrong one mid-project.
On the envelope punch board, you only align to the printed measurement guide on the very first punch. From there, all you do is rotate anti-clockwise, line the score line up with the notch, and score. Don't go back to the guide after that first step.
For the magnetic closure, skip the measuring entirely. Glue the first magnet in place and close the envelope with a small dab of white glue on top of it. When you open it again, there's a faint mark exactly where the second magnet needs to go.
If you don't have an envelope punch board, you don't need one. You can open up a ready-made envelope and use it as your starting shape. Tea-dyeing or lightly steaming an envelope can soften the glue enough to peel it open cleanly — the same gentle heat trick people use to lift postage stamps.
When all your matted panels and pockets make the inside feel very busy, a single piece of plain paper glued over one section, or a few photo corners in the corners of a panel, can bring it back. Simple is always an option, even at the end of a very elaborate project.
It pairs naturally with junk journal pages, sits well inside a book as an interactive insert, and works just as happily as a standalone card. The house-shaped variation alone opens up a whole visual language you can take in whatever direction suits your current project.
