If you've got a jar of odd buttons sitting on your shelf — the ones that don't match anything, the ones you saved from old coats, the ones you just couldn't throw away — this tutorial will give you something genuinely useful to do with them. I show how to make button embellishments in two variations, then walk through six different ways to actually use them: as charms, journal closures, spine embellishments, binding elements, pocket ties, and more.
What we cover
Two construction variations — one with a flat paper back (ideal for gluing down or attaching as a charm) and one with the shank left open (ideal for threading ribbon, elastic, or twine through) — plus practical demonstrations of how each version gets used on a real journal, from pamphlet stitch binding to slip-on closures.
What you'll learn
How to make the flat-back button embellishment, where a punched paper circle forms a clean base and a shank button sits flush in the center:
- Choosing the right shank depth — short shanks only, so the center button sits level rather than propping up
- Orienting button holes straight up before gluing so you have something to thread through later
- Filling the center space with hot glue just before sinking the shank button in, so everything bonds while the glue is still workable
- Using a non-stick surface (a cereal bag liner or baking paper) underneath so any seeping glue peels off cleanly
How to make the open-shank variation, where the shank stays free so you can string ribbon, elastic, or twine through it:
- Positioning thicker flat buttons on either side of the shank, glued directly onto the back of the center button
- Keeping glue away from the shank opening so it stays clear for threading
- Working with different button counts — two, three, or four surrounding buttons — depending on what fits without crowding the shank
Why button and shank size actually matter — and which type goes with which variation. Shallow shanks work for the flat-back version; deeper shanks work for the open-shank version. If you mix these up, you either end up with a center button that sits awkward and high, or a shank you've accidentally filled with glue.
How to bind a button embellishment directly into your signature using a three-hole pamphlet stitch — threading the needle under the button, through the first hole, back underneath, through the second hole, and continuing with the binding as normal. It becomes a permanent spine detail without any extra steps.
How to use the open-shank version as a journal closure, threaded onto a length of stretchy elastic or lace so it can slip on and off the cover. No glue involved — just knotting at the back once you've found the right tension around the journal.
How to sew a button embellishment directly onto stretchy lace using the button holes, so the whole piece functions as a removable slip-on closure.
How to attach a button embellishment to a wide-spine journal using two small holes and a jump ring — the same approach I've used in a couple of other tutorials, and one that also works on the front cover if you want that detail there instead.
What to use as the center piece when you don't have shank buttons — a flat decorative element glued over the center works just as well, and on a smaller arrangement can actually look cleaner because there's less center space to fill.
Tips & gotchas
Check your shank depth before you start gluing. Hold the shank button against the flat buttons you're using — if it sits level, it's right for the flat-back variation. If it protrudes noticeably, set it aside for the open-shank version. Mixing them up wastes time and glue.
Keep your button holes aligned roughly straight up as you glue. It feels like a small thing, but once everything is set and you're trying to thread something through, sideways holes are genuinely frustrating to work with.
Don't overfill the center cavity with hot glue before you sink the shank button in. Hot glue sets fast, and if there's too much in there it hardens before the center button makes good contact. A moderate fill, worked quickly, gives you a better bond.
Glue your surrounding buttons straight, not angled. If you set the first button slightly off-center, each subsequent one gets pushed further out, and the last button ends up with almost no glue contact — it'll snap off easily. Hot glue isn't the strongest adhesive to begin with; uneven placement makes it weaker still. If long-term durability matters to you, e6000 is a stronger alternative, just with a longer cure time.
Don't glue buttons upside down. It sounds obvious, but it's easy to do when you're working quickly with hot glue and reaching across a pile of buttons.
For the open-shank variation, avoid shanks that are very shallow — there won't be enough depth to keep the surrounding buttons from accidentally bridging and closing the opening. Reserve those shallow-shank buttons for the flat-back version instead.
The flat-back ones are straightforward to sew onto a cover through the button holes — all four sides are available, so you have options for placement. The open-shank ones are the ones that kept surprising me: a strip of stretchy elastic, a piece of ribbon, even embroidery floss wrapped and knotted, and suddenly you have a closure that also doubles as a little decorative pocket or pen loop. I made one as a pen holder on a journal cover and liked it far more than I expected. That's often how it goes with buttons — you start with a jar of oddments and end up with something you actually want to keep.
