← Go back
Journal elements

ALTERED VINTAGE PLAYING CARDS - DIY - Ephemera for Junk Journals PART 5

make it with me, Natasa
16:49 · 30 Dec 2019 · 151,264 views
What you'll make

ephemera · mini booklet · journaling spot · pocket · tag

What you'll learn

batch production · quick · upcycled · binding · covering · decoupage

What you'll need

book pages · glue stick · playing cards · pva glue · tea bags · thread

YouTube
320 K+ subscribers

the broader circle · every new video lands here

Subscribe →
Patreon
1,500+ members

the inner circle · private videos, weekly challenges, working notes

Join →
Letters

Once a week — new videos as they go up, plus journal-making ideas, inspiration, tips & tricks. Never noise.

If you've got a deck of playing cards lying around — maybe one that's missing a few, or one you finished and never got around to tossing — this tutorial shows exactly what to do with them. Part 5 of my Ephemera Making Series, it covers how I turn ordinary (and yes, very shiny) playing cards into vintage-looking pieces for junk journals, with no sanding and no gesso required. Just two layers, a bit of patience while things dry, and you end up with a whole deck of ready-to-use ephemera.

What we cover

How to alter playing cards using old book pages, PVA glue, and dried tea bags — including placement tips for a natural vintage look, edge inking for distressing, and a handful of ideas for how to actually use the finished cards in your journals. I also show how to sew three cards together into a small booklet at the end, which came together in a way I wasn't expecting when I started.

What you'll learn

How to apply book pages to playing cards without sanding or gesso — even on surfaces that are completely glossy. The PVA and tea bag layer bonds to the card directly, and once it's dry it won't peel.

Placement strategy for book page fragments — the difference between laying a strip across the middle of a card versus anchoring it to the sides is subtle but real. Centered book page pulls the eye and can look a bit accidental; placed at the edges it reads as intentional and vintage. I show examples of both — including a few early cards where I got it wrong — so you can see the difference clearly.

Tip · 2:55
Why book page placement changes everything
I found that applying the book page to the sides of the card rather than the middle makes a huge difference — smack bang in the middle draws the eye in a way that just doesn't look vintage. The sides let the card breathe.

How to mix and apply a PVA glue solution, including:

  • Three parts PVA to one part water as a working ratio
  • Why spreadability matters more than the specific brand — Mod Podge works just as well
  • Covering the whole card surface before laying the tea bag, then going over it again on top

How to use dried tea bags as a decoupage layer, including:

  • Why tea bags hold up better than tissue paper during application — they're made to stay intact in water, so they don't rip as easily
  • How to lay the tea bag over the glued card and work it flat without tearing
  • Making sure the edges of the tea bag fold fully over the card edge so nothing lifts when dry

How to cut and distress the finished card — once dry, you trim along the card edge, which lifts the excess cleanly. Then optional edge inking; I usually reach for brown, but in this video I used a purplish tone and liked how it deepened the vintage feel.

Ways to use finished cards in junk journal projects, including:

  • Loose ephemera dropped into pockets or used as tags with a ribbon
  • Focal points on covers, envelopes, or pouches — with lace underneath or a word sentiment added on top
  • Journaling spots made by gluing or sewing a stamped book page onto the back and lining with tea-dyed paper
  • Artists trading card swaps
  • Theme-based journals — an Alice in Wonderland journal came to mind immediately, but the same idea works for any theme by adding a printed image or quote specific to that theme

How to sew three altered cards into a small booklet, including:

  • Punching binding holes and sewing a simple binding with thread
  • Adding a small clasp and sticker to finish the cover
  • Using a torn scrap of book page to soften the hard rectangular edges of the closure — because a perfectly straight rectangle next to a precise round sticker needs something to break it up

Tips & gotchas

The shiny surface isn't a problem. I used a deck that had been played through completely — very glossy — and did nothing to prep the surface beforehand. The PVA and tea bag layer adheres and stays put. Don't waste time sanding or applying gesso.

Book page placement matters more than coverage. My early cards had strips right across the middle, and they look noticeably less polished than the ones where I placed the fragment along one side or a corner. You can also skip the book page entirely — some of my cards have none and they still read as vintage once the tea bag layer goes on.

Be gentle with the tea bag. If you're using tissue paper instead, be even more careful — a rip during application can cause peeling later. Tea bags are more forgiving, but still work from the center outward and don't rush. Make sure the edges fold fully over the card before you leave it to dry.

Demo · 4:25
Tea bag texture layer over PVA glue
I mix three parts PVA glue to one part water, coat the whole card, then lay a tea bag over the top and seal the edges completely. Tea bags are ideal because they're made to stay intact in water — they won't rip the way tissue paper can.

No bubbles, no creases. Once the tea bag is down and glued, take a moment to press everything flat. Bubbles and creases that dry in will show — smooth them out while the glue is still wet.

Tip · 5:55
Keeping edges flat with no bubbles
Make sure the tea bag is completely glued down over every edge of the card and that all creases are pressed flat before you leave it to dry — this is what stops peeling later.

Work in batches. I do the book page step across all the cards on one day, then come back the next day just to do the inking. It sounds like it might take longer, but it actually goes faster because you're not switching between steps constantly. Before long you've got a full deck of finished cards ready to go.

Tip · 15:26
Batch production for a full deck of altered cards
I do the book pages on one day and the inking on the next — working in batches keeps it quick and before long you have a whole deck of vintage cards ready to pop into journals whenever inspiration hits.

Make your binding holes small. When I sewed the three-card booklet, I made my holes too large and the book doesn't open as flat as I'd like. Small holes let the pages lie open properly. Something I'll do differently next time — worth knowing before you start rather than after.

Tip · 13:58
Make binding holes small for a flat-opening booklet
I made my holes too large on this one and the booklet doesn't open flat the way I wanted. Small holes and not too tight a binding is what lets a playing card booklet open properly.
Once you've got a deck of altered cards built up and ready, they start finding their way into everything — tucked into pockets, stitched onto covers, pulled out when a journal page needs one more element and you're not sure what.

Having them made in advance rather than making them as you need them changes how freely you can use them, because the decision is already done. The mini booklet idea at the end of this tutorial is one direction to take them; a pullout journaling spot is another. There are a lot of quiet hours of making in a single deck of cards.

— Natasa