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Upcycling

What to Do with Old Large Book Covers?

make it with me, Natasa
52:06 · 2 Nov 2024 · 91,062 views
What you'll make

junk journal · mini folio · mini journal · pocket · signature · spine

What you'll learn

upcycled · corner finishing · covering · five hole pamphlet stitch · gluing · hinging

What you'll need

contact paper · dyed paper · fabric · glue · lace · old books

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Once a week — new videos as they go up, plus journal-making ideas, inspiration, tips & tricks. Never noise.

If you've got a stack of large book covers sitting around — panels salvaged from books you've cut up for their images, or battered kids' books that can't be donated — this tutorial is full of ideas for turning them into something genuinely beautiful. I work through six finished projects in this video, from a vellum-windowed stamp storage book to chunky folio wallets stuffed with pockets, and I show you how to build each one from start to finish.

What we cover

This is a roundup tutorial built around one core question: what can you actually do with a large book cover? I cover how to assess your cover (glossy vs. canvas vs. paintable), how to prepare and decorate it, how to hinge two panels together with fabric to make a folio spine, how to bind pages in using a five-hole pamphlet stitch, and how to line and pocket the inside panels before gluing everything down. Along the way I show six completed projects — folios, a stamp book, journals with removable inserts — as a menu of directions you can take.

What you'll learn

How to assess a book cover before you start — glossy, canvas, or painted — and choose the right approach for each:

  • Glossy covers need sanding before paint will stick, or you skip that entirely and cover with painted paper or contact paper
  • Canvas-like or non-glossy covers take paint directly and beautifully
  • Some covers are worth keeping as-is; you only need to deal with the spine or any visible text
Demo · 44:22
Painting directly on canvas-style covers using lids and sponges
Non-glossy canvas covers take paint beautifully — I show how circular lids, sponge scraps, and cheap glitter paint build up layers of texture that look far richer than a single painted coat.

How to cover a panel with self-adhesive contact paper — including the trick of sticking the sticky side lightly to your table first so you can lay the panel down and smooth out bubbles as you go, then miter the corners cleanly

Tip · 5:55
How I apply contact paper without bubbles
I stick the contact paper adhesive-side down to the table first, then lay the board onto it — this is the trick that makes contact paper manageable and bubble-free.

How to hinge two panels with fabric to create a folio spine, leaving the right amount of space between panels so the folio can expand, close flat, and keep growing as you fill it — the amount of gap you leave here determines how much the finished book can hold

Tip · 10:22
Leaving space in the spine hinge so the folio closes flat
When gluing the spine fabric down, I deliberately leave a loose space rather than pulling it tight — if you skip this, the folio won't have room to expand and close flat once it's filled.

Why I use carpet tape (heavy-duty double-sided tape) alongside fabric glue for the hinge — it holds immediately while the glue sets, useful when you're handling a large panel that wants to shift

How to prepare inside panels before gluing them down, including:

  • Sewing lace pockets onto paper panels at the machine, then gluing the whole panel in as one unit
  • Cutting a window and inserting vellum paper to make a see-through pocket
  • Creating narrow pockets from vellum for storing stamps, using machine sewing or glue
Tip · 15:00
Sew and embellish paper panels before gluing them down
Everything — pockets, lace, vellum windows — gets sewn or glued onto the paper panel first, then the whole panel is glued inside the cover. Once it's glued down, you can't easily add stitching.

How to bind signatures into a spine using a five-hole pamphlet stitch, including:

  • Making a folded paper template the same height as your pages to mark five evenly-spaced holes
  • Using the same template on both the signature and the spine so all holes align
  • The figure-eight stitch pattern, working out from the centre hole and back in
  • Finishing with an S-knot so the final knot sits beside the others rather than on top, keeping the spine flat

How to make large journal pages from kids' scrapbook/art pads — pre-tea-dyed, coffee-dyed, or avocado-dyed — and size them to fit within a specific cover

Demo · 33:45
Five hole pamphlet stitch binding with a template
I use a folded paper template the same height as my pages to space the five holes evenly, then pierce through the spine and signature together — this is the whole binding method start to finish for a tall journal.

How to paint a glossy or canvas cover using found mark-making tools — lids of different sizes for stamping circles, packaging foam for texture, sponges for loose layering — finishing with glitter paint or glitter glue for depth

Tip · 1:28
Choosing how to treat a glossy book cover
I walk through the three main options — paint, cover it, or leave it as-is — and explain why glossy covers can't be painted directly without sanding first. This decision shapes everything that follows.

Tips & gotchas

Glossy covers will reject paint without preparation — either sand the surface first, or skip the sanding entirely and cover with a sheet of painted paper instead. It achieves the same result with a lot less fuss.

When you're hinging two panels with fabric, the gap you leave between them matters more than it looks in the moment. Too little space and the folio won't close once there's anything inside; I showed examples with a tiny spine that struggled, and one with a generous gap that could be chunked right up. Err on the side of more space.

When you glue the spine fabric down, don't pull it taut. Leave it loose across the gap — that looseness is the flex that lets the book open properly. Tight feels better in your hands at the time, but it fights you every time you open the book afterward.

Do all your pocket-making and embellishment work on the paper panels before you glue them into the cover. Once a panel is glued down you lose access to the sewing machine and clean edges. This is the step most easy to do in the wrong order.

Don't use double-sided tape to close pockets. Anything you slide in — a tag, a card, a folded piece of ephemera — will catch on the tape and get stuck. Use fabric glue or regular craft glue on the pocket edges instead.

When gluing panels down, make sure the glue reaches all the way to the edges. Any area you miss will lift, especially on large panels. Press down firmly and let it set properly before filling.


Once you start treating large book covers as a blank building material rather than a problem to solve, a lot of things open up.

The same hinge-and-fabric technique scales to all sorts of panel sizes; the pamphlet stitch works for anything from a slim notepad signature to a fat stack of mixed pages. I've ended up with six of these on my shelf that I genuinely can't bring myself to pass on — which might be the best argument for making them in the first place.

— Natasa