If you've ever looked at an old book and thought "I should do something with this" — and then put it back on the shelf — this video is the answer to that hesitation. I set myself a challenge: use an entire book, cover to cover, and make as much as I possibly could. What came out of it was 25 categories and 124 individual items, all from one single text block. This is a roundup of every category, with enough detail and demonstration to spark your own ideas.
What we cover
Every project category made from a single dismantled book — from the simplest texture techniques (scrunching and gluing book pages for dimensional collage surfaces) right through to handmade paper, loaded pocket pages, contact-paper pouches, belly bands, die-cut charms, and a fabric-covered journal cover. Some categories come with brief on-screen demos; others link to dedicated tutorials I've already made. The full list of all 25 categories appears on screen at the end of the video so you can screenshot it and keep it close.
What you'll learn
How to create dimensional texture from book pages by scrunching — gluing crumpled pages onto a journal cover and either flattening them slightly for subtle relief or leaving them fully raised for a more dramatic 3D surface. Works as a base for gesso, sprays, paints, or collage.
How to make a paper ruffle roll from book pages, including:
- Using strips torn from book pages (and cut-off scraps from 12×12 scrapbook paper) to build continuous ruffle rolls several metres long
- Applying the ruffle to page edges, envelope flaps, the tops of paper bags used as pockets, or the sides of pouches
How to make circle embellishments and charms that hold their shape — the key is gluing three book pages together with a glue stick before punching or die-cutting, which brings the layered sheet close to card-stock weight. Stack the circles, add a button, a scrap of cheesecloth, or a small die cut, and you have embellishments that don't feel fragile.
How to make beeswax translucent paper — grating raw beeswax onto a book page sandwiched between baking paper, then ironing it so the wax melts in. The result looks like aged vellum, with text ghosting through from both sides. I tested whether it stains adjacent pages before committing to using it inside a journal.
How to fold book page envelopes, including:
- A basic folded-and-stitched envelope (start with the page upside down so the writing reads right-side up on the finished piece)
- A narrow pointy-flap envelope (trim the page narrower first — a full-width book page gives you proportions that don't work for this style)
- Covering the folded envelope in a thin fabric layer before stitching for a sturdier, more tactile result
How to make a book page masterboard and use it as a source for multiple projects — cover a 12×12 sheet in torn book pages with writing running in different directions, stamp over the top with archival ink in two or three colours, then cut from the masterboard to make tags, journaling spots, and journal covers.
How to make handmade paper from book page pulp — soaking torn pages, blending into pulp, forming sheets, and pressing dry. I also show what happens when you add food colouring to the water (the paper comes out very pale), and how leftover pulp can be pressed into small patties, dried, inked, and embossed as standalone pieces.
How to make pen holders by folding multi-page stacks — two or three book pages folded together (not glued, so they can move through the folds), inked edges, and a small embellishment on the front. Different page counts and fold placements give slightly different results each time, which I think is the charm of these.
How to make loaded cascade pockets from book pages, including:
- Reinforcing the back page with an extra sheet so the stress of the pockets doesn't tear a single flimsy page
- Folding each successive layer progressively lower to give even spacing between pocket openings
- Gluing each layer flat internally so nothing shifts or gets trapped, then sewing all the way around the outer edge (or gluing each pocket individually if you don't have a sewing machine)
How to decoupage napkins onto book pages with a glue stick — applying glue stick to the book page first, laying the napkin, and going over the top again. This keeps the page flatter than a wet medium would, though you'll want to test your specific glue stick first: some warp paper, some don't, and the only way to know is to glue a test piece and check it after 30 minutes.
How to make book page bookmarks and belly bands — fold a single page in thirds lengthwise, ink the edges, laminate or cover with contact paper, and finish with a sticker, brad, or ribbon. For belly bands: glue the interior flat before adding any pocket so nothing gets accidentally trapped inside.
How to make contact-paper pouches from book pages — applying contact paper to the outside and folding the top edge over to the inside so the opening is protected without sewing, which prevents the contact paper from peeling back with use.
How to make a multi-pocket insert — four book-page pockets glued together in the middle (one line of glue or double-sided tape), stacked and aligned, to create a freestanding insert that can go inside a journal cover, or stand alone with a board backing.
How to make coin-pocket envelopes — folding a book page to the writing, cutting a small notch at the top for easy opening, folding and gluing the back flap up, and trimming the sides on an angle. Quick enough to make in volume; pretty enough to embellish with a paper doily, washi tape, or stamping.
How to make a journal cover by covering a book board with fabric — wrapping the existing cover in a batik-style fabric, adding book corner protectors, cork and cardstock accents, and picture-frame hanger hardware as attachment points for tassels and charms.
Die-cutting and hand-cutting shapes from laminated book page stacks — using the three-pages-glued method to create sturdy material for die cuts, including flowers, butterflies, circles, and tags. If you don't have a die-cutting machine, cereal-box card templates and scissors work fine for most shapes.
Tips & gotchas
Building card-stock weight before cutting is the single thing that makes most of these projects work. Glue three book pages together with a glue stick — covering the full surface each time — and what you get feels almost like card stock rather than flimsy paper. This matters for die cuts, charms, buttons, circle embellishments, and anywhere you want a punched or cut shape to hold its form.
Test your glue stick before you commit. Some warp paper and some don't, and the label won't tell you which. Glue down a test piece, wait 30 minutes, and check. Even if it does warp slightly, laying the piece flat under something heavy usually fixes it — but it's worth knowing in advance.
Use archival (waterproof) ink for stamping if you're planning to add any wet medium over the top — watercolour, diluted PVA, anything like that. Non-archival ink will smudge the moment it gets damp. I sealed one of my masterboard journaling spots with Glue and Seal as an extra precaution, but the archival ink alone is what matters.
Reinforce the back page of loaded pocket projects. All those folded pockets put real stress on the page they're attached to, and a single sheet of old book paper is too fragile to hold up. Back it with a second page or a scrap of tea-dyed card stock before you start building the cascade.
For the beeswax translucent paper — the smell is strong, genuinely strong, so work somewhere with airflow. More importantly, I tested whether the waxed page would stain or stick to adjacent pages before using it in a journal. My test held up over a few days. I'd still suggest testing your own batch before tucking it next to anything precious.
Starting envelope folds upside down is the thing most people get backwards the first time. If you want the book page writing to read right-side up on the finished envelope, place the page upside down before you begin folding. For the narrow pointy-flap style, trim the width down first — a full-width book page gives proportions that don't produce the right shape.
Overlap the contact paper over the top edge of pouches rather than leaving it flush. That fold-over protects the opening from peeling back when you're putting things in and out, and it means you don't need to sew the top edge.
Glue the interior of belly bands and bookmarks flat. Any pocket that isn't fully adhered on the inside can trap small items — you put something in and it slides behind instead of sitting in the pocket. A quick pass of glue stick on the inside before you sew the edges closed solves this completely.
When building cascade pockets, fold each layer progressively lower — a little further down the page each time — to get even spacing between pocket openings. If you fold each layer to the same depth, your pockets will be uneven and some will barely show.
The techniques here — the ruffle rolls, the beeswax paper, the masterboard stamping, the handmade pulp paper — each one opens into its own territory. Journal toppers, whimsical house tags, folded structures I barely touched in this video: there's no shortage of places to go from here. One book really is a mountain of material.
