If you've been curious about traveler's journals — those slim, elastic-bound covers that hold removable booklets — this tutorial shows you exactly how to make one from scratch, sized to whatever paper you have on hand. I cover everything: folding and binding the inserts, cutting and finishing the cover, threading the elastic, assembling the whole thing, and adding a closure plus final embellishments. The cover material in my version came from a resource rescue centre and I genuinely have no idea what it is, which is really the whole point — almost anything with a bit of body will work.
What we cover
This tutorial walks through a complete traveler's journal from the inside out: making and binding pamphlet-stitch inserts from copy paper or junk journal-style mixed pages, constructing and sewing a cover from whatever you have in your stash (fabric, faux leather, cereal box, napkin-on-muslin — all shown), threading elastic through eyelets to hold the inserts, assembling and adjusting the binding, and finishing with a closure, beads, and a tassel made from upcycled jewelry and chain.
What you'll learn
How to make a binding template that scales to any insert size — fold a scrap piece of paper to the exact height of your journal, mark your hole placements on that, and use the same template for every insert you make. It keeps everything consistent whether you're binding three signatures or four.
How to do a multi-hole pamphlet stitch for a tall journal, including:
- Why three holes aren't enough for a tall format and how adding stations up the spine improves the hold
- The figure-eight logic that makes every pamphlet stitch — three holes, five holes, thirteen holes — work the same way: start in the middle, work outward, skip the middle hole on the return pass, come back through the middle to tie off
- Using an odd number of holes every time (even numbers break the pattern and don't finish cleanly)
How to trim signature pages flush after binding — the folded sheets will overhang slightly once sewn; a clean trim along the open edge gives the insert a finished, almost store-bought look.
How to choose and prepare a cover material, including:
- Using faux leather or real leather doubled up and sewn together for structure
- Napkin-on-muslin fabric cloth (softer, more supple than it looks — I keep being surprised by how well it holds)
- Cereal box with reinforced holes when you need a rigid cover on a budget
- Why even a flimsy single layer can work if the elastic does its job
How to mark and pierce five cover holes in a straight line — place your inserts where they'll sit inside the finished cover, find the spine of the middle insert, mark that line, then work out from the centre to place two holes above and two below. The top hole should be close to the edge but with enough material that it won't tear through under elastic tension.
How to set eyelets cleanly and why it matters — the elastic passes through these holes repeatedly over the life of the journal, so any sharp or uneven edges will eventually damage it. Set them carefully, then run something flat over the back to catch any pokey bits before threading.
How to add decorative detail to the cover flap, including:
- Applying PET (clear-print) washi tape along the edge — it adheres much more durably than standard washi and won't peel back with use
- Sewing a zigzag stitch all the way around the cover edge for a finished look, and pulling all thread tails to the inside so the outside stays clean
How to thread elastic through the cover to hold the inserts, including:
- Starting from the inside bottom hole, passing through to the outside, and routing up through the second-from-top hole
- Leaving the binding knot loose until all inserts are loaded and you've tested the tension
- Positioning the knot inside the cover for a hidden finish, or leaving it outside if you want to add beads below it
- Adding a fourth insert by twisting the elastic between the existing signatures and sliding the new booklet through
How to add and adjust the closure elastic — wrap a separate piece of elastic around the closed journal to find the right length, tie a loose knot, thread it through the centre hole from inside, and only tighten once you've confirmed the fit. The knot needs to be large enough that it can't pull back through the eyelet.
How to make a tassel and bead embellishment from upcycled jewelry — broken necklaces, bracelet charms, earring feathers, paper beads, and odd chain lengths all work here. Attach them to a jump ring and loop through the elastic tail. Keep beads loose enough from the cover that the journal can lay flat when open.
How to make and add a ribbon bookmark — double a strip of the cover material, sew around the edges for structure, and finish the top with a loop or clip to keep it from slipping out when the journal is closed.
Tips & gotchas
Always use an odd number of holes. The pamphlet stitch pattern depends on it — even numbers leave you with the thread in the wrong place to tie off cleanly.
Top holes close to the edge, but not dangerously close. If you're using eyelets, you have some protection. If you're working with cereal box or unlined cardboard and skipping eyelets, leave a little more margin and consider reinforcing with a patch of fabric on the inside before piercing.
Leave the binding knot loose until the inserts are all loaded. I've had to undo a tight knot more than once because the last insert made everything snug up differently than I expected. A loose knot costs you nothing and saves a lot of fussing.
Elastic degrades over time — plan for it. This isn't a flaw in the design; it's just the nature of elastic. The good news is that with this style of binding you can replace the elastic completely without touching the cover or the inserts. Worth keeping in mind if you're making these as gifts or long-term journals.
Check your eyelets for sharp bits before threading the elastic. Use something flat — the back of a tool, a bone folder, anything smooth — to press down any jagged edges on the back of each eyelet. A small snag can gradually wear through elastic over months of opening and closing.
If you want the knot hidden, position it before you tighten. Slide it inside the cover so it sits behind the spine, then snug it down. Once a knot is tight against an eyelet it's not going anywhere.
Don't make the closure elastic too tight. Especially on a tall journal — the elastic has a lot of distance to wrap. Test it around the closed, fully-loaded journal before you tighten the knot. You want it to stay closed, not to be a struggle to open.
Leave a gap between the cover and your beads on the binding elastic. If the beads sit right up against the cover they'll catch and pull when you open the journal flat. A centimetre or two of bare elastic between the cover edge and the first bead makes a real difference.
I also made a bookmark from the same cover material on one of mine, doubled and sewn, with a small clip at the top to keep it in place. It's a small detail that makes the journal feel complete in a way that's hard to explain until you have it in your hands. The cover outlasts any single insert, so you just keep adding booklets as you fill them — the same cover can hold a year's worth of journaling, or a grocery list and a goal tracker at the same time.
