If you've ever wanted a journal that does more than just hold pages — one with hidden pockets, flip-up waterfall pages, a side journal, and envelopes stuffed with ephemera — this tutorial is for you. I show you how to build a complete multi-element junk journal using a single large manila envelope as the base, bound with a five-hole pamphlet stitch and decorated with dried flower stickers, book pages, and coffee-dyed fabric. Everything folds back into itself and closes neatly, which is honestly one of the most satisfying parts of the whole project.
What we cover
Starting from a flat manila envelope, I walk through every structural step: folding and scoring the envelope base, binding a side journal and a waterfall journal, hinging elements with washi tape and glue, lining the inner cover panels, creating front and back pockets, and finishing with a closure. The tutorial ends with the journal fully loaded — envelopes filled with ephemera and handmade paper, pockets layered with botanical stickers and vellum, and a coffee-dyed fabric closure.
What you'll learn
How to fold a manila envelope into a journal base — and why leaving extra space on the fold matters from the very first step (everything you add later needs somewhere to go, and the flap has to close over all of it).
How to bind a five-hole pamphlet stitch with embroidery floss, including:
- Starting from the middle hole and working a figure-eight pattern outward
- Skipping the middle hole on the return pass
- Tying off so both thread tails meet on the inside
How to bind a smaller waterfall journal using a three-hole pamphlet stitch — simpler because there are only four pages, but the same logic applies: keep tension even, don't split the thread, tie a clean knot.
How to make a waterfall journal with flip-up pages, including:
- Marking where the longest sheet should end so the layers underneath are visible
- Spacing each subsequent sheet by roughly three-quarters of an inch for a clean stepped effect
- Trimming sheets to a more uniform length once folded, rather than leaving an uneven cascade
How to hinge elements into a journal with washi tape and glue, including:
- Centering the journal or envelope in the spine and applying glue before laying the tape
- Leaving a small gap between hinged envelopes so they have room to expand when filled
- Covering exposed sticky edges on both sides so nothing stays tacky
Why I reinforce the spine and flap hinge — the flap is a single thin fold of paper doing double duty as a closure, so I go over it with washi tape and glue on the outside. The spine gets the same treatment. Neither is just decorative.
How to cut and glue inner cover panels — including accounting for the curved edges of the envelope, leaving space near the fold so the paper stays pliable, and why putting something heavy on freshly glued panels for a few hours prevents the edges from lifting.
How to create a three-pocket back cover using book pages — either sewn on the machine with a straight stitch or glued on three sides, leaving the top open. One stitch run at the sewing machine holds all three pockets at once.
How to apply large stickers without misplacing them — peel only a small corner of the backing first, position and adjust, then slowly remove the rest. Much easier than committing the full sticker at once.
How to add a fabric or washi closure — a strip of coffee-dyed ripped fabric tied around the journal, or a button-and-wrap, or lace. Whatever suits the feel of the journal you've made.
Tips & gotchas
When you make your first fold, don't fold the envelope exactly in half. Leave a bit of extra space — maybe a quarter inch — so the flap can close over everything once the journal is filled. It seems small at the start, but by the time you've added a side journal, waterfall pages, three envelopes, and pockets, you'll be glad you left that room.
When hinging envelopes into the spine, leave a small sliver of space between each one. Envelopes expand when you fill them, and if they're pressed right up against each other with no gap, the journal won't close flat.
Washi tape alone won't hold over time — apply glue underneath and on top of it whenever you're using it for hinging or reinforcement. This applies to the spine, the flap hinge, and anywhere the tape is structural rather than decorative.
After each element goes in, close the journal and check that everything still folds and closes the way it should. It's much easier to adjust something before the glue dries than after you've added the next two layers.
When gluing cover panels, don't bring the paper all the way to the fold. Leaving space near the spine and the flap hinge keeps those areas flexible. A panel that goes right to the fold can lift, crack, or make the journal feel stiff and hard to open.
Score your folds before making them, especially on heavier papers. A bone folder and a light score line make the difference between a clean fold and a crumpled one.
If you're using large stickers — the dried flower ones especially — peel just a corner of the backing, position the sticker where you want it, then slowly peel the rest. Once the full adhesive is down, it's committed.
Don't overfill the envelopes and pockets. A journal that won't close is much less fun to use than one that's curated and manageable. Fill them enough to feel satisfying, then stop.
After you glue any panel or cover piece, put something heavy on it for a few hours if you can. I skip this step when filming, and the edges start to lift — which is its own answer about whether the step matters.
Once the structure is there, the embellishing can go in almost any direction — botanical and vintage the way mine ended up, or clean and minimal, or maximalist with every pocket stuffed. The envelope base is genuinely forgiving, and the hinging method works just as well with fabric as it does with washi tape, which opens up a lot of possibilities for the look and feel. Once you've made one, you'll start seeing envelopes everywhere and wondering what else they could become.
