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Scrap Paper Ruffle Rolls - Tutorial (BUST THOSE STRIP SCRAPS!)

make it with me, Natasa
18:32 · 3 Jun 2019 · 154,223 views
What you'll make

tag · notepad · belly band · decorative edge · pocket

What you'll learn

scrap buster · embellishing · inking edges · machine sewing · sandwiching · straight stitch

What you'll need

dyed paper · paper ruffles · paper scraps · paper strips · scrapbook paper · sewing machine

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Once a week — new videos as they go up, plus journal-making ideas, inspiration, tips & tricks. Never noise.

If you've been staring at a box of paper offcuts wondering what on earth to do with them, this tutorial is exactly what you need. I make these paper ruffle rolls out of the strips and offcuts I accumulate when making journals — the little bits from scrapbook paper edges, the slivers trimmed off signatures — stitched together into a continuous roll of ruffles you can cut from whenever you need them. The whole thing comes together at the sewing machine with a zigzag stitch, and the results look genuinely beautiful on journal pages, tags, and pocket edges.

What we cover

This tutorial shows how to turn paper scraps and offcuts into continuous ruffle rolls using a sewing machine — including how to layer and sandwich strips as you go, how to join new pieces without visible seams, and a few ideas for how to use the finished rolls in a junk journal.

What you'll learn

How to prepare your scrap strips for ruffling — sorting them into base strips (wider) and top strips (narrower), and understanding why the base width matters more than the top.

How to begin the ruffle roll at the machine, including:

  • Starting with a straight stitch to anchor the first layers
  • Switching to a zigzag stitch to create the ruffle effect as you go

How to sandwich in new base strips mid-roll so the roll grows continuously without any obvious join — you tuck the new strip into the fold of the existing structure and keep stitching right over it.

How to join new top strips without the seam showing — slipping the fresh strip underneath an existing ruffle fold so the starting point disappears into the texture.

How to add a stripe of ink to top strips before ruffling — running a strip across an ink pad before it goes under the needle gives a line of contrast color that reads beautifully once the paper is gathered up.

Why the zigzag stitch doesn't need to be centered — as long as the stitch catches both the base paper and the top paper, the ruffle holds. It doesn't have to hit the middle of the strip.

Tip · 14:45
Stitch placement — it doesn't have to be centered
As long as the zigzag stitch goes through both the base and top paper, you're fine — I keep ending up off-center and it still holds perfectly.

How to use the finished ruffle roll in a journal, including:

  • Trimming pieces to use as page edge trim instead of lace
  • Adding ruffles to the top of tags with a strip of ribbon
  • Using a strip of ruffles as a belly band or page decoration with a focal point (button, flower, etc.)

How to keep the roll from unraveling once cut — gluing the ruffle to your page holds the thread in place naturally. If you'd prefer, you can also run a straight stitch through the finished roll before cutting.

Tip · 7:21
How I prevent ruffles from unraveling
You can run a straight stitch through the finished roll, but I find that gluing the ruffle to the page holds the thread in place just as well — no unraveling once the glue is down.

Tips & gotchas

Keep your base strips roughly the same width. The top strips can vary as much as you like, but if the base strips jump from thick to very thin, the roll looks uneven when it's wound up. Close enough is fine — you don't need a ruler — but it's worth pulling out the obvious outliers before you sit down at the machine.

Tip · 3:24
Base strip width and top strip sizing
I keep my base strips approximately the same width for a uniform look on the roll, and the top strips just need to be thinner than the base — the lengths don't matter at all.

Top strips must be thinner than the base. That's what creates the ruffle — the top paper gathers while the base stays relatively flat. How much thinner doesn't matter; it just can't be the same width or wider.

Stop the machine when you're joining a new strip. You can keep stitching through the join, but pausing gives you a second to position the new strip properly. It's a small habit that saves you from having to unpick later.

Tuck new top strips under a ruffle fold, not just on top. When you're running low on your current top strip, slide the start of the next one underneath one of the folded bits before you stitch over it. The fold hides the join completely.

Demo · 10:18
Sandwiching new strips to hide joins
When I run out of a strip, I tuck the new one underneath an existing ruffle fold so the join disappears — that's the move that keeps the roll looking continuous.

Gluing to the page is your best anti-unravel strategy. Once the ruffle strip is glued down the center to a tag or page, the adhesive locks the thread in place — no separate finishing stitch needed. If you're storing the roll for later use, a quick straight stitch down the middle of the whole roll keeps things tidy until you're ready to cut.

Don't stress about the zigzag going off-center. The ruffle structure is forgiving. What you're watching for is that the stitch catches both layers — as long as it does, the ruffle holds and the slight wonkiness just adds to the handmade quality.

Reveal · 16:13
The finished ruffle roll
Here's the full roll in just a few minutes — some sections neat, some messy, and honestly I love the messy parts more when it's laid along a page edge.
Once you've got a roll or two going, they start appearing everywhere in a journal.

A few centimeters trimmed from the roll is enough to edge a tag; a longer strip can run down the side of a page where you'd normally reach for lace. Tea-dyed strips ruffled up look like something you'd spend serious time on — and you've made them out of paper you were going to throw away. I find the slightly messier sections of the roll are often the most appealing ones to cut from, which says something about how forgiving this whole technique is.

— Natasa