← Go back
Journal making

Mass Making & Building a Journal - Part 2

make it with me, Natasa
1:11:27 · 16 Nov 2025 · 75,711 views
What you'll make

bookmark · junk journal · mini booklet · belly band · interactive · journal topper

What you'll learn

batch production · scrap buster · burnishing · cutting · focal point placement · folding

What you'll need

book pages · coloring book page · dyed paper · lace · magazine images · music pages

YouTube
320 K+ subscribers

the broader circle · every new video lands here

Subscribe →
Patreon
1,500+ members

the inner circle · private videos, weekly challenges, working notes

Join →
Letters

Once a week — new videos as they go up, plus journal-making ideas, inspiration, tips & tricks. Never noise.

If you've been hoarding paper scraps, strips, playing cards, and packaging paper — waiting for a project worthy of all of it — this is that project. In this second instalment of the Mass Making & Building a Journal series, I work through five scrap-busting ideas designed to fill a box with ready-to-use journal elements you can pull from whenever you need to build a journal quickly. Each project is made in batch-production style: do all the same steps across every piece before moving on, so the thinking happens once and the making becomes almost meditative. And running alongside the mass making, I'm building a real journal at the same time — so you can see exactly how each element lands on the page.

What we cover

Five mass-make projects built almost entirely from scraps: playing-card booklets with interactive folded pages, accordion-fold bookmarks made from paper strips, scrap-paper L-shape tuck spots, layered journaling spots and journal toppers using packaging paper and book pages, and book-page pocket elements with lace or trim. In between each project I add pieces directly into the journal I'm building, so the assembly isn't theoretical — you watch it happen in real time.

What you'll learn

How to make interactive booklets from paper scraps and playing cards, including:

  • Folding scrap paper in half, trimming to a rough match, and inking edges before assembly
  • Cutting two long sheets, folding them so the pages extend beyond the booklet's edge, and sewing down the spine on the sewing machine with the decorative stitch facing outward
  • Gluing the booklet onto an inked playing card (or cardstock) with a twine tie and small bookplate label as the only embellishments
  • Deciding which side of the playing card to face forward — sometimes the plain back reads better than the face

How to make accordion-fold bookmarks from paper strips, including:

  • Gluing a long strip onto a base sheet and folding in alternating directions until you reach the end
  • Inking each crease before refolding so the folds read clearly
  • Two variations: cutting the accordion free for a standalone bookmark, or leaving it attached to the full page so it folds out as an interactive journal spread
  • Turning the folded page into a pocket by sewing down the sides and adding a decorative clip to hold it closed

Why I do all steps across the whole batch before finishing any single piece — completing one project at a time feels satisfying, but switching tasks repeatedly slows everything down. Running a production line (all sewing together, all inking together, all gluing together) means you make decisions once and then simply repeat.

Tip · 7:24
Why mass making means doing all same steps together
Instead of finishing one booklet completely before moving to the next, I do all the sewing across every piece first, then all the burnishing, then all the gluing. It's the only way to keep the momentum going without decision fatigue.

How to build scrap-paper tuck spots using the L-shape formula, including:

  • Pulling four scraps of any size, arranging them in an L configuration, and gluing them down onto a base
  • Adding a focal point (postage stamps work perfectly here, or any small image with straight-cut edges) to unify the composition
  • Sewing over the arrangement to hold everything together and add visual interest
  • Choosing one focal point type across the whole batch so you're not re-deciding on every single piece
Demo · 32:26
The L-shape formula for scrap tuck spots
Four scraps arranged in an L shape, a focal point image, and some stitching — that's the whole formula. Giving yourself a fixed structure means no decision paralysis, just production.

How to make layered journaling spots and journal toppers using packaging paper, torn music or book pages, lace or trim, and fussy-cut images, including:

  • Using packaging paper (or any paper you can write on) as the base for journaling spots — the writing surface is the point
  • Tearing the music or book page rather than cutting it, so no straight edges interrupt the layered look
  • Adding a small piece of lace or fabric trim before stitching everything together in one pass on the sewing machine
  • Sizing up for journal toppers: the same four-layer approach, but on a larger base, so the piece overhangs a journal cover or page edge rather than tucking into a pocket
Tip · 48:51
Choosing base paper you can write on for journaling spots
When making journaling spots to tuck into pockets, the base has to be something you can actually write on — otherwise what's the point of having it in your journal? That one choice drives the whole project.

How to make book-page pocket elements with image and trim, including:

  • Folding a book page, ripping (not cutting) the exposed edge for a natural finish, and inking the front and sides
  • Gluing and sewing a focal-point image onto the face, then folding and gluing the sides closed to form a shallow pocket
  • Sewing a strip of lace or ribbon across the opening to close the pocket and add decoration in a single step
  • Filling the finished pocket with notepad strips, tags, or folded paper to make it immediately functional in the journal

Why the interior pages of mass-made elements don't need to be precious — the hearts might be going the wrong way, there might be holes in the paper, the pages inside may not be inked. None of that matters once the element is in a journal surrounded by other things. The whole carries the parts.

Tips & gotchas

Set your sewing machine stitch length somewhere between 2 and 3. Stitches that are too close together perforate the paper rather than pierce it, and the whole thing tears along the seam. I've done it. You only need to do it once to remember.

Tip · 5:24
Sewing machine stitch length for paper booklets
If your stitches are too close together, the paper rips easily — I keep my stitch length between 2 and 3 on the dial. It's a small setting that saves a lot of frustration.

If you're not using a sewing machine, glue everything down more thoroughly than you think you need to. The sewing holds layers together and closes edges in one pass — without it, you need the glue to do all that work, so don't be stingy.

Pick one closure material and stick with it across the whole batch. It's tempting to think, this one would look better with ribbon, this one deserves a different twine — and before you know it you've spent twenty minutes deciding rather than making. Choose your twine or ribbon before you start and don't revisit it.

Tip · 9:09
Choosing one closure type and sticking with it
You might think ribbon looks better on one card and twine on another — and maybe it does — but switching between options mid-batch will overwhelm you. Pick one and smash them all out.

When you're sorting your four-layer compositions: large pieces become journal toppers (they're meant to overhang and be seen), smaller assembled pieces tuck into pockets and tuck spots. Trying to force a large piece into a small tuck spot just makes a mess of both.

Tip · 51:49
Large pieces as journal toppers, smaller ones as tuck spots
As I'm making the batch I realise the larger pieces are too big to tuck into a pocket — they work much better as journal toppers on a cover. Smaller pieces are the ones that fit neatly as tuck spots.

For journaling spots specifically, the base paper has to be something you can actually write on. It sounds obvious, but it's easy to reach for pretty patterned paper and forget the whole point of a journaling spot is that someone — you — will eventually write on it.

Don't spend energy perfecting the interior pages of your booklets during a mass-make session. You can add tabs, stenciling, woven ribbon, all of it — but that's for a different day. The box you're filling is for future journals, and future you can embellish then.


What I find with projects like these is that the box fills faster than expected — and the moment you're mid-journal and need a tuck spot or a topper, you just reach in and pull one out.

That's the whole point: removing the friction from the building so the making stays enjoyable. There's already a third session of ideas forming (altered paper clips came up, and there are still book pages to explore), so the box isn't going to stay full for long.

— Natasa