If you've ever looked at a ring-bound journal and thought "that looks like a nightmare to actually write in" — pages that resist turning, rings that get in the way of your hand, the whole thing feeling more like a binder than a book — this tutorial is where I work through exactly that. I've made a version of this journal before and abandoned it for all of those reasons. In this video I show you what I figured out, build the whole structure from scratch, and leave you with a hardcover ring-bound journal where the pages genuinely turn smoothly, the rings sit clear of your writing hand, and nothing needs to be folded in half.
What we cover
This is part one of a two-part project. Here we build the complete journal structure: salvaging and preparing a hardcover from a thrifted book, making a hole template, cutting and preparing pages (including flip-out and pocket elements), reinforcing holes, decorating tab pages with harvested flowers, and assembling everything onto the rings. Part two covers the decorative elements and embellishments in detail.
What you'll learn
Why three rings make all the difference — two rings leave too much room for pages to shift and resist turning. Three rings (one centre, one near each edge) distribute the load so pages arc over the rings cleanly without you holding anything in place.
How to make holes the right size — this was my original mistake on an earlier version of this journal. The holes need to be noticeably larger than the rings themselves. The ring has to travel over its own curve as each page turns; without that wiggle room, every page fights you.
How to salvage a hardcover from a thrifted book, including:
- Separating the text block cleanly from the cover boards
- Removing the spine
- Covering the raw edges with wide lace or fabric strip so the finish looks intentional rather than rough
How to make a reusable hole-punch template from cardstock — one template serves the cover and every page in the book. Mark your three hole positions (leaving about an inch and a half from top and bottom, one in the middle), draw a registration line so all holes land in the same column, and use it consistently through the whole build.
How to prepare pages from upcycled materials, including:
- Tea-dyed file folder dividers as sturdy journal pages
- Kids' scrapbook paper packs for colour and pattern variety
- Trimming pages to a consistent size using one finished page as a cutting template
- Orienting flip-out and flip-down elements so the fold lands in the right place before you punch the holes
How to make hole reinforcers from your own off-cuts — punch a circle from a scrap of paper, ink the edges, then punch a hole through the centre using the same tool you used for the pages. The result looks finished and matches your palette. Two methods shown:
- Paper circle reinforcers glued over the hole on one or both sides
- Washi tape reinforcers, torn for an uneven edge and applied so the ripped offcut covers the reverse side — nothing wasted
How to punch holes through a thick hardboard cover — a standard hand punch won't get through hardcover boards. A Cropadile-style tool works well, but a hardware-store hole punch and a hammer does the same job.
The correct orientation for punching the back cover — don't flip the back cover as if you're aligning it face-to-face with the front. Place it face-down and punch from the back, so the holes mirror correctly when the journal is closed.
How to build simple cover pockets from scrapbook paper, including:
- Cutting paper to slightly less than cover height so it sits neatly inside
- Using a wavy-blade cutter to add a decorative top edge (a straight cut works just as well)
- Layering two pieces per cover face to create a double pocket or tuck spot
- Using the pocket layer to hide lace or fabric edging on the spine side
How to harvest and reassemble flowers from thrifted floral picks, including:
- Stripping plastic fittings and mounts from the stems
- Separating and layering individual petals to build new flowers
- Attaching the finished flower to a tab page with a brad, with a punched-circle cover glued over the brad feet on the reverse
The peeled-sticker-on-book-page technique — place a sticker onto a strip of book page before fully adhering it, then peel. The book page tears away with the sticker in a way that extends the image naturally beyond its edges. Happened by accident on this journal; now I use it on purpose.
When not to apply the rings — rings go on last, after everything is complete. Assembling pages onto rings mid-project and then trying to add or adjust elements is frustrating; keep the rings off until you're genuinely done.
Tips & gotchas
Make the holes bigger than seems necessary. When I built my first version of this journal the holes were technically the right size for the rings — and the whole thing was miserable to use. The ring doesn't just sit in the hole; it travels over its own curve as the page turns. That movement needs room. Err on the side of too large.
Three rings, not two. With only two rings there's too much flex in the middle of the page span; things shift, pages resist. Three rings keep everything stable without making the journal feel rigid.
Don't reinforce both sides of a hole before you punch through. If you reinforce both faces first, you lose your hole location entirely. Reinforce one side, punch through the existing hole, then do the other side if you want it.
When punching the back cover, align it correctly before you commit. The back cover needs to mirror the front, not match it face-to-face. Place the back cover face-down, align your template to the correct edge, and punch. It's an easy mistake to make once — then you have a back cover with holes on the wrong side.
Don't overfill the rings. There's a real capacity limit, and a gaping journal that won't close properly isn't just aesthetic — it affects how the pages turn too. If your book is starting to bow open noticeably, you've probably hit the limit for those ring sizes.
Eyelets are an option, not a requirement. They do help pages turn cleanly, especially on thinner paper, but they eat ring capacity fast. On this journal I didn't need them — the larger holes and three-ring spacing did the job.
If you're here after part two is already out, the link is in the video description. And if this is your first time working with ring-bound structures, the principles here — hole sizing, ring count, cover orientation — carry over to any ring-bound format you try next.
