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Upcycling

Handmade Gift Bags DIY | Recycled Materials

make it with me, Natasa
33:24 · 6 Sep 2019 · 88,213 views
What you'll make

hole reinforcer · paper flower · pocket · for gifting · tag · christmas

What you'll learn

budget alternative · upcycled · collage · covering · embellishing · folding

What you'll need

book pages · glue · pva glue · ribbon · string · tape

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Once a week — new videos as they go up, plus journal-making ideas, inspiration, tips & tricks. Never noise.

If you've got a stash of old book pages you've been meaning to use — and maybe some printed paper headed for the recycling bin — this tutorial shows you how to turn them into handmade gift bags from the ground up. I originally made these to house journals: either to present a finished journal in, or to give one as a gift. But once you understand the construction, the same technique scales up or down for almost anything, including tiny bags that tuck inside a journal as a gift enclosure.

What we cover

This tutorial walks through the full construction of a recycled gift bag using book pages layered over A4 paper, from deciding on size and gluing your pages, through sealing, decorating, assembling the bag body, adding a front pocket, and finishing with punched handles. I also cover the different decoration options — napkins, collage, sewing, beads, buttons, handmade flowers — and when in the process to do each one.

What you'll learn

How to scale the bag to any size using A4 sheets as your unit of measure The sizing system is simple: one sheet of A4 makes a small bag, two sheets give you a wider and taller bag, three sheets wider still. No measuring tape required — just decide how many sheets to join.

  • One A4 sheet — a compact bag, good for mini journals or small gifts
  • Two sheets joined — a medium bag that fits most standard journals
  • Three or more sheets — a larger bag for oversized projects or gift sets

How to layer book pages over recycled paper using diluted PVA glue I mix PVA glue with water — roughly three parts glue to one part water, though I don't measure precisely — and coat the book pages before laying them directly over the base paper. The goal is full coverage with no missed spots, which means working from large pieces first to cover the main surface, then filling gaps with strips laid in different directions so there are no long straight edges visible anywhere.

Why I choose book pages without heavy dialogue formatting Pages dense with continuous prose cover better than pages broken up with short dialogue lines and white space. It's not a rule, just something I've found makes the finished surface look more intentional.

How to watercolour book pages before gluing — a separate prep step you can do anytime. The chalky, painted pages add colour variation to the bag; they just need to be sealed afterward so the colour doesn't transfer to your hands.

How to seal the finished surface, including:

  • Matte acrylic varnish — what I used here
  • Clear acrylic sealer — works well if you have it sitting unused
  • Hairspray — a perfectly viable budget option; worth knowing it will yellow over time, which matters less for a gift bag than for a long-term project

How to assemble the bag body, including:

  • Folding and sewing (or gluing) the top edge to give it a clean finish
  • Joining the two side ends with double-sided tape
  • Covering the visible seam with short strips of book page so the join disappears
  • Forming and closing the bottom gusset, with folded side pleats that let the bag stand open

How to add a front pocket I use a journaling card as the pocket base, decorated with handmade flowers and a bit of lace, then glued to the front of the bag. The timing matters: glue the pocket when the bag is slightly open, not flat — if you glue it flat and then open the bag, the pocket can end up too tight to slip tags or notes into.

How to punch and reinforce handle holes, including:

  • Choosing hole size based on handle thickness (a small circle punch for ribbon, a larger punch for cord)
  • Positioning holes far enough from the top edge to avoid stress tearing
  • Adding hole reinforcers — the clear sticky rings — to protect the paper around each hole

How to add and tie handles so both sides match I thread cord from the outside in and tie a knot on the inside. The second handle is where things can go slightly wrong — I always hold both sides together to check they're exactly the same length before finalising the knot.

How to fold the finished bag flat for storage Once the bag is complete, it folds back down to a flat stack, which means you can make a batch in advance and store them easily.

Tip · 7:20
Covering straight edges with torn strips
I tear strips of book page and layer them across any straight-cut edges so there are no clean lines showing — it makes the whole surface feel intentional rather than patchy.
Tip · 25:03
Gluing the pocket while the bag is open
If you glue the pocket down while the bag is flat and fully closed, it becomes too tight to use once the bag opens — I glue it flat but open the bag slightly before the glue dries.

Tips & gotchas

Hairspray works, but yellows. It's the most accessible sealer and completely fine for gift bags — they're not archival objects. Just go in knowing the colour will shift over time if the bag isn't used quickly.

Tip · 10:17
Hairspray vs. varnish as a sealer
Hairspray works as a cheap sealer for these bags, but it will yellow over time — for a gift bag that's not meant to last decades, that's a perfectly fine trade-off.

Decide on decorations before you assemble. Some techniques — sewing directly onto the surface, laying a napkin with PVA, adding a beaded trim — are much easier on a flat sheet than on a constructed bag. I plan the decoration at the sealing stage, not at the end.

Tip · 12:15
Why decoration order matters
Some things — like sewing on lace or adding a napkin collage — are much easier on a flat surface before the bag is assembled, so I decide on my decorations at this stage rather than after.

The pocket timing matters more than you'd think. Gluing a pocket onto a flat, closed bag means when you open the bag it pulls the pocket tight. The fix: glue the pocket down, then immediately ease the bag slightly open before the glue sets. Quick-drying glue or double-sided tape both work better here than slow-setting PVA.

Use double-sided tape for the bottom flap, not glue in the centre. The bottom just needs to stay closed — tape is cleaner and won't leave an oily residue over time the way tape can in the middle of the bag surface.

Don't punch handle holes too close to the top edge. There's real stress on those holes once anything heavy goes in the bag. Move them a bit further down than feels instinctive, and add hole reinforcers even if you're using thicker paper — they're invisible once the bag is decorated and they do real work.

Check handle lengths before you commit to the final knot. I hold both cords side by side every time. It takes five seconds and saves having to undo a tight knot that's already been trimmed.

Tip · 29:33
Adding hole reinforcers and checking handle length
I punch the handle holes away from the edge to reduce stress, add clear hole reinforcers for protection, and always check both handles are the same length before tying the final knots.

Wear gloves when working with PVA. This is one of those things I keep meaning to do and then don't, and then spend time picking dried glue off my hands. The rubberised flakes are satisfying to remove, but it's still extra work.

Seal watercoloured pages before gluing. Chalky watercolour pages feel dry and rough, and the pigment can come off on your hands. A coat of sealer before construction fixes both — it also makes the colours look richer and the surface feel finished.

Reveal · 32:08
The finished gift bag
The completed bag with its pocket, handmade flowers, journaling tags, and cord handles — plus a quick look at how it folds flat for storage.
Once you've made a few of these, the construction becomes quick enough that you can work in batches — cover and seal a stack of sheets in one session, then assemble bags whenever you need them.

The same base bag works as a gift enclosure for a handmade journal, a little market bag for selling at craft fairs, or a presentation piece that's already part of the gift. Tiny versions — made from a single sheet — fit neatly inside a journal as a built-in pocket or gift holder, which is where I first started experimenting with the scale.

— Natasa