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Journal making

Every Page Covered in Napkin!

make it with me, Natasa
50:03 · 9 Aug 2026 · 108,708 views
What you'll make

junk journal · pocket · altered notebook · art journal · book corners · bookplate

What you'll learn

book harvesting · upcycled · decoupage · gluing · hand sewing · stitching

What you'll need

glue stick · napkins · old books · pva glue · flat brush · card stock

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Once a week — new videos as they go up, plus journal-making ideas, inspiration, tips & tricks. Never noise.

If you've spent years collecting decorative napkins — gifted ones, childhood swaps, finds from secondhand shops — and wondered what to do with them all, this tutorial is one answer I didn't expect to love as much as I did. I covered every single page of a hardcover book in napkin, then turned many of those pages into pockets, working one spread a night until the whole thing became something I'd genuinely call a little artwork. The flip-through is here if you want to browse first; the step-by-step process follows in the second half.

Inspiration · 5:21
The texture and sound that makes this book worth making
There's something about the way these napkin-covered pages feel and sound — sturdy, crackly, tactile — that I genuinely can't get enough of. For me, that's as much the point as anything you'd put in the pockets.

What we cover

This video is two things in one: a full flip-through of a finished napkin book — every page covered, thirty pockets, hand-stitching, and a black-and-gold cover — followed by a complete tutorial on how to make one yourself. That includes choosing the right source book, removing pages gradually without destabilising the binding, applying napkin with a PVA solution, trimming to a deckled edge, and constructing pockets that stay flexible rather than going rigid.

What you'll learn

How to choose and prepare a source book for this kind of project, including:

  • Why a hardcover book holds up better than a soft cover during the long making process
  • What to look for in the binding — stitched signatures versus glued pages, and how each affects your approach
  • Why library withdrawals and books headed for destruction are the ideal raw material
Tip · 9:17
Choosing a stitched hardcover book for stability
I always recommend a hardcover book over a soft cover, and a stitched binding over a glued one — the stitching holds everything together as you add bulk, and the hard cover gives you structure to work against.

How to remove pages from a stitched book without loosening the binding, including:

  • Why the middle page of each signature — the one with the stitching — must always stay in
  • How to identify and remove the sister page at the same time, so no leaves go loose
  • Why removal is gradual and ongoing rather than done all at once before you start

How to work through the book evenly to avoid a warped spine — starting from the middle of each signature and building outward in a non-linear order, so bulk accumulates evenly across the whole book rather than front-loading one end.

The two-step napkin application process, including:

  • Separating the napkin to a single ply using a small piece of sticky tape to get it started
  • Using a glue stick first to position the folded napkin snugly into the spine before painting over with a runny PVA-and-water solution
  • Smoothing from the middle outward to prevent bubbles
  • Why you need to be generous with the glue solution and never try to remove excess — the water evaporates and takes the bulk with it

How to trim the napkin to a deckled edge after drying — cutting the protective pages away, then nipping with scissors along the book edge and ripping the napkin for a naturally ragged finish, rather than cutting it clean.

Why pages should never be fully glued together, and what to do instead:

  • How fully glued pages create rigidity that stops natural page movement, causing buckling and bulk at the spine
  • Using hand-stitching — straight stitch or blanket stitch along the edge — to join pages while still allowing flex
  • How gluing pockets only at the top and bottom edges (not fully) lets the middle of the page find its own movement
Tip · 25:36
Why I hand-stitch pages instead of gluing them together
Fully gluing two pages together makes them rigid — they can't move naturally as you turn the book, so you get buckling and bulk. Hand stitching holds them together while still allowing movement, and the pages lie flat.

How to make pockets from napkin-covered pages, including:

  • Gluing at the top and bottom edges only for standard side-loading pockets
  • One variation left fully open at the top for easy access
  • Why top-loading pockets are harder to use in practice — and why, after trying one with the sewing machine, she went back to glued side pockets for the rest

How to protect and embellish the cover last — keeping the original cover on throughout the entire making process, then removing it only when the book is finished and ready to decorate.

Tips & gotchas

Never remove the middle page of a signature. That's the page where the stitching runs through, and pulling it out loosens the whole binding. Work right next to it, but leave it intact.

Remove pages gradually, not all at once. After covering six or so spreads, check how much the book has grown. Then remove a few more pages. This back-and-forth is the whole process — bulk and removal in conversation with each other — so you end up with a spine that closes cleanly rather than a book that gaps open.

In a sewn book, always remove the sister page. Each leaf in a stitched signature is one half of a folded sheet. Pull one half out and the other goes loose. Find it — it's the page directly opposite in the same signature — and remove both together.

Make your PVA solution runny. It should flow easily off the brush. If it's too thick, you'll drag the napkin and tear it. A dry brush over wet napkin is the main way things go wrong here.

Tip · 14:37
How I hold the napkin in place before gluing
I apply the glue stick first to anchor the napkin so it doesn't shift, then paint over everything with the runny PVA solution — skipping that first step is how napkins end up sliding around and tearing.

Glue stick first, solution second. The glue stick holds the napkin in position while you paint; the PVA solution does the real bonding. Get the folded edge of the napkin snug into the spine before opening it out, and start your brush strokes from the spine outward.

Don't be stingy with the glue solution. Cover every millimetre of the napkin, including right to the edges and onto the protective paper underneath. The excess water evaporates — don't try to lift or scrape it off.

Tip · 15:22
Painting PVA solution without ripping the napkin
Start right in the spine and work outward — be generous with glue and never drag a dry brush over the napkin or it will rip. All that water evaporates, so don't try to remove the excess.

Only glue the top and bottom of pockets, never the full page. A fully glued pocket is rigid. Glued only at the edges, the middle of the page can still flex, and the book will open and close naturally. The same logic applies to any pages you want to join: hand-stitch rather than glue, and leave movement in the middle.

Work on pockets in a non-linear order — one near the front, one near the back, one in the middle — rather than front to back. This spreads the new bulk evenly and prevents the spine from warping to one side.

Do the cover absolutely last. The cover takes knocks throughout the making process. Leave it in place as protection until the book is finished, then remove it, embellish, and put it back.

Reveal · 1:27
The finished napkin book — full flip through
Every page covered in napkin, a mix of single pages and pockets, with that crackling texture I fell completely in love with. This is the whole book before any filling of the pockets.

What I find myself thinking about now is what this kind of approach opens up beyond napkins specifically.

Any thin, patterned paper that you've been hoarding and not quite known what to do with — tissue paper, printed rice paper — could follow the same logic. And because none of the pages in this book are glued together, there's still room to embroider through the spreads, add stitched embellishments, or use the napkin as a base layer for a proper art journal background. I didn't go that route — I liked the napkins too much to cover them — but it's there if you want it.

— Natasa