If you've ever looked at a finished junk journal — chunky with elements, spilling over with pockets and flip-outs and little things tucked everywhere — and wondered how on earth someone actually builds that layer by layer, this video is the answer. I take a layered staggered journal we made together in a previous video and walk through the complete embellishing process from front cover to back, including a full step-by-step demonstration of the waterfall element so many of you asked to see.
What we cover
This is a full embellishing walkthrough for a multi-signature junk journal — every spread, every interactive element, from the first pocket on the inside front cover to the corner flip-up on the back. The waterfall effect gets its own detailed demonstration, including how to cut, score, and glue the strips so the cascading layers sit flat and align cleanly. Alongside that, we cover belly bands, hidden paper clips, matchbook inserts, flip-out envelopes, flip-down envelopes, booklets, tuck spots, writing space, and more.
What you'll learn
How to make a waterfall journal element, including:
- Cutting strips to consistent widths (and why the width matters more than the length)
- Scoring and burnishing the fold at the top of each strip so it sits flat rather than lifts
- Gluing strips in sequence, snug up to the previous one, starting completely straight
- Making the closure stopper with a half-circle punch so the whole element stays smoothed down
- Leaving the base piece open on three sides to create a pocket underneath the waterfall
How to make a hidden paper clip element — layering two paper offcuts over a paperclip so the clip is concealed but still functional as a page clip and tuck spot
How to make a mini matchbook insert, including:
- Folding a tea-dyed scrapbook strip for the cover
- Building a small pamphlet-style booklet for the interior pages
- Stapling and covering the staple with a small decorative piece
How to create a belly band with a removable notepad, including:
- Sizing a strip of paper to leave just enough room for the notepad to slide in and out
- Sewing loose notepad pages back together at the top if the original glue has given out
- Positioning the band so it holds without being too tight to remove
How to make a flip-down envelope — folding a paper strip into a self-contained envelope that folds down flat and stays closed with a tied string or stopper element
How to build pocket pages from scraps, including:
- Gluing three sides only to leave the top open
- Using Taperology pocket pieces folded into shape
- Creating diagonal corner tuck spots from small offcuts
How to set eyelets for charms and closures — using a silent setter or hammer-and-punch method depending on the eyelet type, and when the Crop-A-Dile is and isn't the right tool for the job
How to make a book-page paperclip bow — cutting a half-heart shape from folded book pages, assembling top and hanging pieces, and stapling through the back of the paperclip without hitting the metal
How to create writing space on busy scrapbook paper — layering offcut pieces, sewing them to a strip, and gluing down so there's a clean surface to write on without covering the decorative paper entirely
How to make decorative corners from gold foil cardstock — using die cuts to create metallic-looking corner embellishments that are visible when the journal is closed
Why I mark placement before gluing anything down — a small habit that saves a lot of second-guessing mid-project
Tips & gotchas
The most important thing with the waterfall element is that the first strip goes down completely straight. If it's even slightly off, every strip you add below it inherits that angle, and by the last piece the whole thing is visibly crooked. Use craft glue rather than double-sided tape here — you want a few seconds to nudge the piece into position before it sets. Then check it against your ruler before moving on.
All your waterfall strips need to be exactly the same width. The lengths can vary — and I actually like having them get progressively longer down the page — but if the widths are inconsistent, the staggered edge will look uneven rather than deliberate.
When you're making the stopper for the waterfall closure, don't overlap it too far onto the top piece or you'll make it difficult to pull the flap up. Just enough to hold things smoothed down is enough.
Score and burnish your folds rather than just finger-pressing them. A fold that isn't properly creased will sit up slightly, which matters especially on the waterfall strips where you want everything to lie flat.
On pocket pieces, round the corners and ink the edges before you glue them down. It's a small step that makes the difference between a piece of paper stuck to a page and something that looks considered.
When embellishing the back cover, be careful not to run glue all the way to the edges — with thinner papers especially, it can seep through to the outside. Take the glue to within a millimetre or two of the edge and let it spread naturally.
If you're adding writing space by layering sewn paper strips, mark where you want the piece before you pick up the glue. It sounds obvious, but once you've got glue on your hands it's easy to forget exactly where "right there" was.
The waterfall effect in particular is one of those elements that opens up a lot of possibilities: the same basic technique works on bookmarks, journal covers, or anywhere you want layered visual depth without adding much bulk. And almost everything here is made from offcuts, scraps, and things that were heading for the bin — which is, honestly, the best part.
