If you've ever bought a pack of pretty napkins at a two-dollar shop and then spent six months wondering what to do with them, this tutorial is exactly where to start. I walk through the decoupage technique — napkins onto paper, cereal boxes, file folders, and book covers — and then show a whole range of finished project ideas so you can see what's actually possible with this one simple method.
What we cover
This is part demonstration, part roundup. I start with the core technique — how to mix your glue, separate napkin layers, and apply everything smoothly — then move through a collection of finished projects: decorated journal pages, journaling spots, pockets, writing boards, file folder tags, mini journal covers, and an altered book cover. The paper bag experiment is in here too, including what went wrong.
What you'll learn
How to mix a decoupage glue solution that actually works — the ratio I use is two thirds PVA to one third water, mixed until it's close to the consistency of water. The runniness is the whole point: it lets the glue soak through the napkin without dragging it across the surface.
How to separate napkin plies cleanly — most napkins are two or three ply. You only want the top, printed layer. I show a couple of ways to get that backing off without tearing the image you want to keep.
The core decoupage technique, including:
- Applying without a glue stick first — lay the napkin, start in the middle, brush outward
- Using a glue stick as a first step to reduce wrinkling before brushing over with the glue solution
- How to check for air bubbles by tilting the piece to the side, and how to push them out before the glue sets
How to flatten warped pieces after drying — decoupaged paper curls as it dries. I show both methods: leaving pieces overnight under heavy books (my usual approach) and ironing with a baking paper barrier. Honestly there's not much difference in the result, and for some materials you really should skip the iron.
How to decorate single journal pages and journaling spots — applying napkin images directly to book pages and packaging paper, then backing onto tea-dyed paper with a little stitching to create journaling spots ready to drop into a bound journal.
How to make journal pockets and envelopes from napkin-covered packaging paper — the crinkly texture of packaging paper is a feature, not a flaw. Once it's covered and dry it's surprisingly sturdy, and it folds into beautiful little envelopes and pockets.
How to build double-sided writing boards from cereal box card, including:
- Choosing non-directional napkin images that work from either orientation
- Using a white or gesso-primed surface so the image reads clearly through the napkin
- Sandwiching two pieces with double-sided tape, trimming the edges clean, and finishing with machine stitching or washi tape
How to cover a book cover with a napkin — the more involved version of the technique. I walk through protecting the desk with a cereal bag (things genuinely don't stick to it the way they do to paper), laying the napkin over the cover, working outward from the spine grooves, wrapping and gluing the edges under, and finishing with a coat of gloss varnish. If the cover is dark, a layer of white paint or gesso underneath makes the image show through much more clearly.
How to make file folder tags — decoupaging napkins onto file folder card, then cutting into tags, inking edges, adding tabs, and optionally running through an embossing machine for texture.
How to trim a decoupaged piece evenly — napkin stretches unevenly during application and the edges end up ragged. I show how to fold to a straight edge and use a cutter to bring everything into line.
Tips & gotchas
Runny glue is everything. If your glue is dragging the napkin rather than flowing under and through it, add more water. The solution keeps indefinitely — it's water-based, so just adjust consistency as you go.
Use a large, soft brush. A small brush means too many passes over the napkin; a coarse brush will tear it. The brush I use covers a large area in one stroke and is soft enough that it doesn't catch.
Only use the top ply. Leave the backing layers on and the image will look flat and papery. Pull them off and the printed layer becomes translucent in the loveliest way, especially over old book text.
Start from the middle and work outward on every pass. This pushes air out rather than trapping it. Tilt the piece sideways after you've covered it — bubbles show up immediately that way — and smooth them before the glue starts to set.
For dark covers, paint or gesso the surface white first. You can see the difference clearly in the video: the same napkin image on a dark cover versus a pale one is almost a different result. It's worth the extra step.
Don't iron paper bags — or anything you're not sure about. I learned this one directly: what was a wrinkled but usable bag became something genuinely ugly after the iron. Heavy books overnight is the safer default for anything you're not certain about. When you do iron, put baking paper between the iron and the piece.
A glue stick applied first helps reduce wrinkling on covers and larger pieces. I don't rely on it alone — it won't hold long-term — but as a first layer before the PVA solution goes on, it gives the napkin something to grip while you work.
Don't be stingy with glue when covering a full book cover. Keep adding. The napkin needs full contact with the surface everywhere, including right into the spine grooves and out to the edges.
When making writing boards, protect your desk with a cereal bag rather than paper. Glue doesn't stick to it, which saves you a lot of frustration when things inevitably drip.
Once pieces are trimmed and finished, inking the edges makes a real difference. It's a small step that gives everything a more resolved look.
A stack of decorated pages ready to go into signatures, a set of writing boards, a handful of tags, a few journaling spots — these are the things that make it quick to put together a journal later, because the individual pieces are already done. Decoupaging napkins also works beautifully on packaging paper, which strengthens it while giving it gorgeous texture — those crinkly envelopes and pockets are some of my favourite things to include in junk journals. I've been decoupaging on book pages the longest, and I still think that's my favourite combination: the napkin image layered over old printed text, both visible at once. There's something about it that always feels right.
