If you've got a stack of washi tape you've been hoarding for years and an old book cover you're not quite sure what to do with, this tutorial is for you. I'm making a complete journal from scratch — cover to text block — using washi tape as the only binding method for the signatures, then gluing everything together into a book that lays completely flat wherever you open it. No sewing required for the binding itself (though I do add a few stitches to a pocket later, just because I wanted to). The result is something that genuinely surprised me with how sturdy and flexible it turned out.
What we cover
This is a full start-to-finish journal build: washi tape signature binding, assembling a text block by gluing signatures together, working with an upcycled hardcover book cover, attaching a mesh fabric spine, and finishing the inside panels — including a reinforced pocket made from a cereal box and an end page salvaged from the original book.
What you'll learn
How to bind signatures using only washi tape — no needle, no thread, no piercing required. Each strip of tape runs across the open pages and into the fold, holding everything together from the outside in.
Why I don't crease my folds too firmly for this method — washi tape adds a small amount of bulk at the spine, and a softly rounded fold sits more comfortably against that bulk than a hard, crisp crease. I usually reach for my bone folder, but not here.
How to decide whether to add glue under the tape — I didn't use glue in this video, and here's why: I tested the adhesion first and found these particular tapes wouldn't peel off easily. If your washi tape lifts without much resistance, add glue underneath. If it holds, you may not need it.
How to assemble six separate washi-bound signatures into a single text block, including:
- Gluing only the outer pages of adjacent signatures together (not the full page — leave a finger's width free at the spine)
- Why that gap at the spine matters — without it, the book won't open flat and movement is restricted
- How to check alignment at the spine as you stack, and correct before the glue sets
Why a flexible spine is non-negotiable for this binding style — I tried using the original hardcover with its rigid spine intact, and it didn't work. The book couldn't open flat. The spine piece has to be able to fold and move when the book opens. I show exactly what happens — and what it looks like when it does work — so you can see the difference clearly before you commit to anything.
How to use an upcycled hardcover book cover as journal panels, including:
- Cutting the spine away and wrapping the raw edge neatly on the inside for a clean finish
- Why both panels need to be exactly the same size before assembly
- How to make your own panels from chipboard or cardstock if you don't have a vintage hardcover on hand — wrapped, finished edges and all
How to attach a mesh fabric spine — mesh is trickier than regular fabric because it won't stay put with glue alone. I use double-sided tape first to hold it in place, then come back with glue. For the spine edge of the cover panels where the mesh is being pressed down under the board, I switch to an acetone-based glue rather than my usual PVA, because art glitter glue (which is otherwise a great all-rounder) will warp paper.
How to create a reinforced inner pocket from a salvaged end page and a cereal box, which solves three problems at once: it hides the double-sided tape that will eventually bleed through the page, it reinforces a section of the cover that turned out floppier than I'd planned, and it incorporates a beautiful piece of the original book into the journal itself.
How to finish the first signature page — I also show how you can switch out the washi tape on your very first page if you decide partway through that you'd prefer a different pattern facing you when you open the journal. You can simply layer a new strip on top.
Tips & gotchas
Don't over-crease your signature folds. A soft, rounded fold is actually better here. The washi tape adds bulk at the spine, and a sharp crease will fight against that. Just fold and leave it — no bone folder needed.
Leave a finger's width of space at the spine when gluing signatures together. This is the gap that allows the book to open flat. Glue right up to the spine and you lose that movement entirely.
Test your washi tape's adhesion before reaching for the glue. If it peels off easily, use glue underneath. If it holds well on its own, you may not need it — and skipping the glue keeps the process fast and clean.
Mesh doesn't behave like fabric. It's stiff, springy, and won't stay where you put it if you go in with glue first. Use double-sided tape to tack it down, then add glue to secure it properly.
Don't use art glitter glue directly on paper panels — it will warp them. Use an acetone-based glue for any areas where you're gluing the cover boards. Art glitter glue is wonderful for multi-material applications (like pressing mesh under a board), just not on paper surfaces.
Cover any double-sided tape on inside pages before it bleeds through. It will, eventually. Gluing a thick card or a backed end page over it solves this before it becomes a problem.
Cut your washi tape strips larger than the book. You need somewhere to hold the ends while you're positioning the tape, and having a bit of extra length on each side makes the whole process much less fiddly. Trim the excess cleanly with an X-acto knife once everything is in place.
Let the glued covers dry under a heavy book — at least 10 to 15 minutes, and longer if you can manage it. Ideally a couple of hours, or overnight. I'm impatient when I'm filming, but I do at least give it the minimum. Lifting too soon means lifting panels.
Make all panels exactly the same size before you start assembling. Even small differences become obvious once everything is stacked and glued. Get this right at the cutting stage and the rest of the build is much smoother.
The washi tape binding on its own is genuinely useful as a technique for quick projects, and the cover-building approach here works with almost any panels you have to hand. I'd also love to try this with washi tapes that have decorative cut edges — wavy or scalloped — because the spine would look so much more intentional than straight strips. That's a project for another day.
